Speaker upgrade

[8ball_99]

well shit, maybe I'll swap the 5 ch for the 6 ch and use the sub amp I have now for the time being, and get the 202s and just set it up exactly like yours...

I think you would be better off. I started with a 4 channel amp. The dash really needs its own channel so does the front doors. I don't think you can really have a good sounding system with only four channels. The front doors need more power than the rest and you can't sum the dash with the rear doors. Besides if you want to take advantage of the DSP they all need their own anyway.

 

[AustinQuattro]

I can't cancel the amp, so I'll have to return it when it arrives, and I can't find the 6 channel anywhere. I might use the one I have now, but just set everything up for the front speakers and dash speakers, leaving the rears to be powered by the bose temporarily until I get another amp. Rear is only fill anyway, and I don't think I'm gonna mind having the speakers back there getting less power. Then I can set it up the same as yours on the fronts. I'll let you know how it works out while I try to find the 6 channel amp. It's always something. I found the 8ch JL, but it is less powerful per channel, and I'd need a new sub to take advantage of the power since mine is 2ohm and bridging 2 channels would give me either 4ohms or 1ohm. UGH lol.

Thanks for the advice thus far

 

[8ball_99]

I can't cancel the amp, so I'll have to return it when it arrives, and I can't find the 6 channel anywhere. I might use the one I have now, but just set everything up for the front speakers and dash speakers, leaving the rears to be powered by the bose temporarily until I get another amp. Rear is only fill anyway, and I don't think I'm gonna mind having the speakers back there getting less power. Then I can set it up the same as yours on the fronts. I'll let you know how it works out while I try to find the 6 channel amp. It's always something. I found the 8ch JL, but it is less powerful per channel, and I'd need a new sub to take advantage of the power since mine is 2ohm and bridging 2 channels would give me either 4ohms or 1ohm. UGH lol.

Thanks for the advice thus far

Honestly that will probably work fine. I was going to suggest if you do go with a 4 channel to just leave the rear on the bose. You would still want to tap into them to get the full range signal to sum with the front doors. But just letting the factory amp push them would be fine. The factory rears are 3.6 Ohms. So if you went with the kappa speakers like I have. They are 2.8 Ohms. The bose amp should actually be able to push the Kappa speakers a little louder at the same volume. It actually might work out pretty well.

 

[AustinQuattro]

I went with the same ones, for the same reason...good SPL sensitivity, and lower ohm rating, and they all match now. Including the sub lol. I'll hit you up when everything gets here to see how you summed things up. Mine should be the same except not amping the rear speakers differently. Thanks man!

 

[8ball_99]

I went with the same ones, for the same reason...good SPL sensitivity, and lower ohm rating, and they all match now. Including the sub lol. I'll hit you up when everything gets here to see how you summed things up. Mine should be the same except not amping the rear speakers differently. Thanks man!

I actually have my DSP files saved on my computer from me tuning the system. I used a calibrated microphone a long with audio controls software to tune mine. I have one with just the eq levels set and I have one with the time delay set for the driver. I'm not sure if they would work with your model amp, but your welcome to them. Same trucks same speakers. Should get you pretty close.

If it was the same AudioControl D-6.1200 I know it would be plug and play. All you would have to do is adjust the line out level for your sub amp.

 

[AustinQuattro]

I actually have my DSP files saved on my computer from me tuning the system. I used a calibrated microphone a long with audio controls software to tune mine. I have one with just the eq levels set and I have one with the time delay set for the driver. I'm not sure if they would work with your model amp, but your welcome to them. Same trucks same speakers. Should get you pretty close.

If it was the same AudioControl D-6.1200 I know it would be plug and play. All you would have to do is adjust the line out level for your sub amp.

That would be amazing! It *should* be plug and play since the only difference is the is like you said the line out level for the sub amp. Thanks man! Everything gets here in the next 2 days, but doubt I'll get to the amp part that fast. Life, job, kids, and also building a '57 Chevy gets in the way lol

 

[AustinQuattro]

Ok, I got all the speakers installed, still need to run the power and ground for the amp, don't have time to do that until next week. But, the new harness gets here on the 13th and it's pretty sweet because it's plug and play...unplug the bose amp, plug the harness in, plug other end into the bose amp, now I have speaker level leads into the amplifier, and then leaving the amp with power to back into the harness so no rewiring speakers. Right now, it sounds really freaking good with just the new speakers but it is a little bright (not complaining, it's soooo much better already). Eager to get the amp in and set up the DSP and give it some real power. Should be ~150W to each door and to each side of the dash.

8ball_99, if you can send me the DSP files you saved, that would be awesome, since it's same everything except rear speakers, which I'm not too concerned about.

 

[8ball_99]

Ok, I got all the speakers installed, still need to run the power and ground for the amp, don't have time to do that until next week. But, the new harness gets here on the 13th and it's pretty sweet because it's plug and play...unplug the bose amp, plug the harness in, plug other end into the bose amp, now I have speaker level leads into the amplifier, and then leaving the amp with power to back into the harness so no rewiring speakers. Right now, it sounds really freaking good with just the new speakers but it is a little bright (not complaining, it's soooo much better already). Eager to get the amp in and set up the DSP and give it some real power. Should be ~150W to each door and to each side of the dash.

8ball_99, if you can send me the DSP files you saved, that would be awesome, since it's same everything except rear speakers, which I'm not too concerned about.

Nice! Yeah np just PM me your email and I'll send them to you. I'm sure you probably already know, but there is a rubber grommet on the passenger side of the fire wall you can use for the amp wire. You just snip the end and you can run the wire through it. I can probably grab a picture of it if you aren't familiar with it?

 

[8ball_99]

Here is the grommet in the firewall. That amp wire is 1/0 gauge. Kind of hard to get a good picture. But atleast you can get the idea of location.

 

[AustinQuattro]

OK! I got the amp installed, and after a few nightmares (a wire slipping out of place and getting pinched in the seat, then me forgetting to put the seatbelt back around the seatback and not figuring it out until we're leaving on a Thanksgiving road trip and my boy says "I have no seatbelt") I got it all working. I had to use resistors to make my phone calls work properly because I couldn't get volume on my calls to be able to hear the call. Not always necessary, but the AC-LGD 60 is the product that AudioControl recommends and apparently it isn't an uncommon problem.

Since I'm using the amp for the front doors and dash plus sub, the rear doors are powered by the Bose. I have the fronts time corrected and everything, but the rears are playing loud enough to be a distraction, so I think I need to adjust the gain a bit more than what the D-6.1200 settings showed, because there seems to me no way the bose should have more volume than the ~150 watts/ch I should be getting from the D-5.1300 to each door and each corner of the dash. I may even change to the D-6.1200 and a sub amp if only to bring the rears in line with the DSP functions and ensure the sound is correct.

My sub does seem to get a bit boomy on some stuff and underpowered on other stuff, probably why I need the ACR-3, but I ordered it twice and was sent an ACR-1 each time, which doesn't work with my amp.

Otherwise, all-in-all it's sounded pretty damn good and a huge improvement over the OEM Bose stuff. Just need to finish tweaking it.

 

[8ball_99]

Glad you got it mostly sorted. You want the AC3 anyway so you can swap tunes on the fly. Crutchfield is the best. They aren't always the cheapest. But man they get stuff right or they fix it. They also are great if you decide you just don't like something and want something else.

 

[AustinQuattro]

Glad you got it mostly sorted. You want the AC3 anyway so you can swap tunes on the fly. Crutchfield is the best. They aren't always the cheapest. But man they get stuff right or they fix it. They also are great if you decide you just don't like something and want something else.

So...I ordered the D-6.1200. Returning the D-5, and adding an LC-1.800 for the sub. Just don't like not having control of the rear doors, and this way it's all covered. Also, the USB-Micro connector for the DSP and such was loose when I got it and now it doesn't work at all. So I needed to return it anyway. In a week or so I should have all the new stuff in, but you already know what it sounds like! Only difference is I have an Infinity Kappa 1000W 10" sub in a custom box and will have a bit more power. Thanks again...I'll actually get to use your files now!

 

[8ball_99]

So...I ordered the D-6.1200. Returning the D-5, and adding an LC-1.800 for the sub. Just don't like not having control of the rear doors, and this way it's all covered. Also, the USB-Micro connector for the DSP and such was loose when I got it and now it doesn't work at all. So I needed to return it anyway. In a week or so I should have all the new stuff in, but you already know what it sounds like! Only difference is I have an Infinity Kappa 1000W 10" sub in a custom box and will have a bit more power. Thanks again...I'll actually get to use your files now!

Awesome. I think you will like it better. I was the same way. I just wasn't happy with a 4 channel. Wasn't bad, but just didn't give the right control. Same reason why I changed the kicker amp out to one with line inputs. Have a DSP, might as well have all the channels running through it.

The oem kicker has been good with the different amp. I haven't really felt like I needed more. I actually wasn't able to find out what RMS the sub is. It came with a 200 watt amp. I've had a 300 watt amp on it for a year now. Pretty sure it's rated for 350 rms. But yeah a 1000 watt sub setup should thump. Mine already distorts the HUD and camera mirror when it's turned up.

 

[AustinQuattro]

Awesome. I think you will like it better. I was the same way. I just wasn't happy with a 4 channel. Wasn't bad, but just didn't give the right control. Same reason why I changed the kicker amp out to one with line inputs. Have a DSP, might as well have all the channels running through it.

The oem kicker has been good with the different amp. I haven't really felt like I needed more. I actually wasn't able to find out what RMS the sub is. It came with a 200 watt amp. I've had a 300 watt amp on it for a year now. Pretty sure it's rated for 350 rms. But yeah a 1000 watt sub setup should thump. Mine already distorts the HUD and camera mirror when it's turned up.

Now I just need to figure out where to get remote turn on for the second amp, since it is taking the RCA signal from the D-6.1200 and isn't using hi-level inputs that would give it the auto turn on. But it sounds sooooooo much better now, even without my sub working yet.

 

[8ball_99]

Now I just need to figure out where to get remote turn on for the second amp, since it is taking the RCA signal from the D-6.1200 and isn't using hi-level inputs that would give it the auto turn on. But it sounds sooooooo much better now, even without my sub working yet.

You can use the remote out on the AC amp. The AC amp will cut on based on audio single. You can use the remote wire connection on the amp to trigger other amps. That's how mine is wired. I do believe you have to change a setting so the remote wire connection is a output vs a input.

 

[AustinQuattro]

You can use the remote out on the AC amp. The AC amp will cut on based on audio single. You can use the remote wire connection on the amp to trigger other amps. That's how mine is wired. I do believe you have to change a setting so the remote wire connection is a output vs a input.

awesome...thank you! I changed up the other amp for the sub, and went with the Rockford Fosgate T750X1bd Power 750 Watt Class-bd Mono Amplifier for the sub. It's super small, like 8.3" x 4.3" x 1.6", so I should be able to mount it behind the seat against the wall where the seatbelt goes, so it's right next to the other amp. It gets here Tuesday, so I'm just keeping the seat-back off for a couple days. And I had to do the resistor on each of the Dash, Door, and Rear door channels in order for it to send a signal. The rear doors work then stop working unless I plug the regular plug in, then I unplug it and the rears work. Strange, but maybe it's because I have a 2024 2500HD and they're using Global B architecture? Not sure.

Now, I'm thinking I'll upgrade the damn 10" Infinity Kappa 1000W to a JL 10W6v3-D4 but maybe I'm good after getting some power on the Kappa and having the DSP to tune it out.

 

[AustinQuattro]

Update...it's all in! Played a 40hz test tune and upped the gain until the clipping light went on, dropped it back a tiny bit, and good god this thing sounds good! Having 952 watts from that little amp on the sub definitely doesn't hurt, and it leaves me with plenty of dynamic headroom. All in, having the pre-tuned files from 8ball_99 made it super easy, and now I'll just fiddle with the sub a little and I'm good to go. For future reference to others here, that little Rockford Fosgate amp is LEGIT. 952 watts at 2ohms, 1ohm stable, and super easy to hook up. The remote power trigger from the D-6.1200 didn't need anything but to be connected. I just offered to go to the grocery for my wife at 8pm and when she said "why?" I was like "so I can jam out!" Oh, and that little amp fits on the wall back there. The only visible anything to tell I have a system is the tweeters on the A-pillar, and the sub under the seat, which isn't super noticeable. All in, this is the best sounding vehicle I've had and I've fiddled with this stuff for 33 years. Thanks for all the help.

 

[cparkin]

So much great advise on this thread. I have installed speakers, subs and amps before but had no idea what I was doing.

I see a lot of you are saying to tap into the sub wiring and wondering if that is the best route for my situation. I have to 10” kickers in a ported box with a Memphis class d mono amp. Looking for best place to tap in.

Also anyone heard of the kicker 47 key amp? I had that guy that someone talked about on an earlier post make me a harness for my old trail boss. Would like to add it to my zr2 but not sure how.

 

[AustinQuattro]

Just a heads-up, I see that there are some recently available options for getting good signal from the system and bypassing the bose amp. The AXDSPX-ETH1 from AXXESS includes DSP and T-Harness with all integration, which means you unhook the BOSE amp entirely, plug this in to the appropriate plugs, and it outputs pre-wired and ready to plug in for the front dash, door, rear door, and sub. So, you would only need to hook the amp up and plug it in, no tapping into the wires to get from speaker out on the amp to the speakers. It also apparently does the work of getting the signal to the right places without requiring summing, etc. Here's the link:

https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AXDSPX-ETH1

From what I've ready, keep everything flat and still use an external DSP amp like the AudioControl amp I'm using, and then do the tweaking in the better DSP. I went and bought 2024 Sierra Denali 3500 Dually which has the exact same setup, so I'm gonna do the same setup as my 24 Silverado 2500 but I'm gonna use this adapter package and see if I like it better.

Also, gonna use this panel to mount everything...much cleaner than what I did on my other truck. I'm learning from my mistakes, and you can too!

Custom Made Amplifier Rack/Plate/Board - Compatible with 2019-2025 GMC Sierra - Chevrolet Silverado

Looking for a secure place to mount your aftermarket stereo equipment in your 2019-2025 GMC Sierra - Chevrolet Silverado Truck with factory BOSE? If so, we have the perfect solution.Custom-made by our team out of premium HDPE which provides a strong, stable platform for your gear. This mounting...

soundsgoodstereo.com

 

[8ball_99]

Just a heads-up, I see that there are some recently available options for getting good signal from the system and bypassing the bose amp. The AXDSPX-ETH1 from AXXESS includes DSP and T-Harness with all integration, which means you unhook the BOSE amp entirely, plug this in to the appropriate plugs, and it outputs pre-wired and ready to plug in for the front dash, door, rear door, and sub. So, you would only need to hook the amp up and plug it in, no tapping into the wires to get from speaker out on the amp to the speakers. It also apparently does the work of getting the signal to the right places without requiring summing, etc. Here's the link:

https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AXDSPX-ETH1

From what I've ready, keep everything flat and still use an external DSP amp like the AudioControl amp I'm using, and then do the tweaking in the better DSP. I went and bought 2024 Sierra Denali 3500 Dually which has the exact same setup, so I'm gonna do the same setup as my 24 Silverado 2500 but I'm gonna use this adapter package and see if I like it better.

Also, gonna use this panel to mount everything...much cleaner than what I did on my other truck. I'm learning from my mistakes, and you can too!

Custom Made Amplifier Rack/Plate/Board - Compatible with 2019-2025 GMC Sierra - Chevrolet Silverado

Looking for a secure place to mount your aftermarket stereo equipment in your 2019-2025 GMC Sierra - Chevrolet Silverado Truck with factory BOSE? If so, we have the perfect solution.Custom-made by our team out of premium HDPE which provides a strong, stable platform for your gear. This mounting...

soundsgoodstereo.com

View attachment 16912

Cool, Post back how it works out. When I did my HD I also used a panel like that to mount everything in the rear. I also didn't really tap into the wires the same way that I did on my 1500. I bought some plugs off amazon and sort of made a harness. My amps just plug in and if I need to remove them I can unplug them and just plug the factory wiring back together. The plugs are located close to the factory amp. It took a little bit of wiring, but was only about 40 bucks. But if there would have been an option to just do away with the bose amp all together, I might would have went that route.