Speaker upgrade

[8ball_99]

Just the factory Kicker sub. I’m going to start with the speaker replacement and see how that goes. Next step will probably be a DSP/Amp like what you have. I wish NavTV would release their signal processor for our trucks to clean up the signal but I’m not going to let that slow me down. If I go with a DSP, I’m going to build a custom connector for the speaker wires so I can return it to stock if I need to or swap in something else in the future (most likely the latter lol)

Yeah that Navtv if it works like they say would diffenitly be the ticket. I'm happy with mine now and it sounds great, but a plug and play option to delete the bose Amp would have been easier.

I actually also just replaced the amp on my kicker sub.

 

[landpilot]

Nice! What did you use?

 

[8ball_99]

Nice! What did you use?

Nothing fancy, just a Kicker 46CXA400. I had points on Crutchfild from the other stuff that knocked 45 off. The factory 200watt amp is a little anemic and it only had high level inputs. Having the DSP with low level outputs and the option to tune the line out in the software. It just made sense to switch to an amp that could take advantage of that. It made a huge difference. Way louder and I have a lot more control of the crossover frequency and volume. Actually pretty impressed with the kicker sub now with this amp on it. Spent two hours driving today and actually had the sub turned down about halfway. Before it was at max and still seemed lacking. My wife instantly said the radio is way more boomy now lol

 

[ODAVE]

Nothing fancy, just a Kicker 46CXA400. I had points on Crutchfild from the other stuff that knocked 45 off. The factory 200watt amp is a little anemic and it only had high level inputs. Having the DSP with low level outputs and the option to tune the line out in the software. It just made sense to switch to an amp that could take advantage of that. It made a huge difference. Way louder and I have a lot more control of the crossover frequency and volume. Actually pretty impressed with the kicker sub now with this amp on it. Spent two hours driving today and actually had the sub turned down about halfway. Before it was at max and still seemed lacking. My wife instantly said the radio is way more boomy now lol

Hey 8ball- Is that Kicker 46CXA400 amp a direct replacement the stock Kicker sub amp? Does fit in the sub enclosure?

 

[8ball_99]

Hey 8ball- Is that Kicker 46CXA400 amp a direct replacement the stock Kicker sub amp? Does fit in the sub enclosure?

No it's not. It has rca connections for inputs instead of the speaker wires. It is also larger. But if you want an upgrade that will pretty much go in the same spot and wire into the existing connections. I think a Audio Control ACM-1.300 monoblock would be 3 good option.

I'll take a picture of where I put the kicker. It actually doesn't take up any space because it fits under the back rest of the back seat. Hard to explain, but it doesn't take away from my underneat storage area. Not a great picture, but hopefully get the idea.

​

 

[8ball_99]

Landpilot:

That's the speaker wire circle for the tweeter in the apiller. It and the dash speaker wire are ran in the same spot. Then go down to under the seats for the crossovers.

 

[subflyerc]

Just the factory Kicker sub. I’m going to start with the speaker replacement and see how that goes. Next step will probably be a DSP/Amp like what you have. I wish NavTV would release their signal processor for our trucks to clean up the signal but I’m not going to let that slow me down. If I go with a DSP, I’m going to build a custom connector for the speaker wires so I can return it to stock if I need to or swap in something else in the future (most likely the latter lol)

Did you upgrade the speakers? What did you go with?
Thinking of going this route by upgrading the speakers first.

 

[landpilot]

Did you upgrade the speakers? What did you go with?
Thinking of going this route by upgrading the speakers first.

I did, I went with the Infinity Kappa 693 components for the front (tweeters in the A pillars), Kappa 693 coaxial in the rear doors, and AudioFrog GS25 in the dash. I've got the factory subwoofer still in the box, just can't find the time to put it in. Still no word yet on the NavTV decoder...

 

[Keewatin427]

I am legit embarrassed to play music with my truck’s “premium” Bose system. The buzzy and tinny quality of the speakers when I play any song with even slight bass is so cringe inducing. It’s by far the most disappointing aspect of the truck.

 

[8ball_99]

I am legit embarrassed to play music with my truck’s “premium” Bose system. The buzzy and tinny quality of the speakers when I play any song with even slight bass is so cringe inducing. It’s by far the most disappointing aspect of the truck.

Yeah I agree. I purchased my truck from a dealer about 1.5 hours away. On the drive home I liked the truck, but I instantly said it was about the worst stereo I've ever had lol. The tinny, clock radio sound is just off putting. Between that and the stock exhaust, Kind of killed the vibe of its madden voyage.

FWIW mine sounds amazing now. Was a bit of a pain to change everything because of the built in bose Amp. But Diffenitly worth it. Love the truck now. Only gripe I have is the 24 gallon fuel tank. Unfortunately, doesn't seem like there is any fix for that. I've just came to terms with the fact everytime I look at my fuel gauge its going to be below half a tank, lol

 

[exiledZR2]

Nothing fancy, just a Kicker 46CXA400. I had points on Crutchfild from the other stuff that knocked 45 off. The factory 200watt amp is a little anemic and it only had high level inputs. Having the DSP with low level outputs and the option to tune the line out in the software. It just made sense to switch to an amp that could take advantage of that. It made a huge difference. Way louder and I have a lot more control of the crossover frequency and volume. Actually pretty impressed with the kicker sub now with this amp on it. Spent two hours driving today and actually had the sub turned down about halfway. Before it was at max and still seemed lacking. My wife instantly said the radio is way more boomy now lol

So reading a bunch of your posts - had a question that hopefully makes sense.

In the Kicker sub install instructions, it taps into the Front Right Speaker (Yellow and yellow/black twisted wires). That’s giving the sub a full range signal.

I’ve seen on some other forums that people change that to wire directly into the Bose Sub line (Blue/Grey and Green/Black twisted wires).

Could I t-tap into the blue/grey and green/black twisted wires and hook up to the sub harness (green/brown wires) to get the proper low range signal for a sub?

If so, I assume it would be best to t-tap into the wires at the passenger rear door and run a cable back up to the front passenger door and hook in to the green/brown sub harness that I did in the original install?

 

[8ball_99]

So reading a bunch of your posts - had a question that hopefully makes sense.

In the Kicker sub install instructions, it taps into the Front Right Speaker (Yellow and yellow/black twisted wires). That’s giving the sub a full range signal.

I’ve seen on some other forums that people change that to wire directly into the Bose Sub line (Blue/Grey and Green/Black twisted wires).

Could I t-tap into the blue/grey and green/black twisted wires and hook up to the sub harness (green/brown wires) to get the proper low range signal for a sub?

If so, I assume it would be best to t-tap into the wires at the passenger rear door and run a cable back up to the front passenger door and hook in to the green/brown sub harness that I did in the original install?

Yes you could do that to tap into the actual sub wire vs the front passenger door speaker. I actually did that before I changed my sub amp out. I didn't run a wire up to the front though. I just made a small slit in the kicker wire harness loom and pulled some slack out to make the connection. Either way would work. Shorter wire runs never hurt though.
Turning the bass up and down on the radio effects the kicker volume level more when you do that. Which makes sense really. I think when you adjust the bass on the head unit it's mainly controlling the factory sub.

BTW the factory sub wire is larger gauge. So you might need different taps. I'd say it's 12-14ga if I remember right, vs the 18ga the front speakers use.

 

[exiledZR2]

Yes you could do that to tap into the actual sub wire vs the front passenger door speaker. I actually did that before I changed my sub amp out. I didn't run a wire up to the front though. I just made a small slit in the kicker wire harness loom and pulled some slack out to make the connection. Either way would work. Shorter wire runs never hurt though.
Turning the bass up and down on the radioheffects the kicker volume level more when you do that. Which makes sense really. I think when you adjust the bass on the head unit it's mainly controlling the factory sub.

Great call on the shorter wire. Makes it a bit easier as well.

How did you find the difference in the default bass levels by changing that wiring up?

I also have the Kicker knob run to the centre console so I can adjust the sub if needed. And all 6 switches on the amp for the sub are in the up position - I saw that on a youtube video as recommended setup with the knob.

 

[exiledZR2]

For anyone interested. Taping the wife’s for the Bose sub made a HUGE difference.

I had previously had the bass EQ at around +7 with the kicker knob at full.

Now I’m at +2 on EQ and knob at about 3/4 and can really feel the sub working.

It’s disappointing that kicker doesn’t have this as the default install option.

 

[R I G]

For anyone interested. Taping the wife’s for the Bose sub made a HUGE difference.

I had previously had the bass EQ at around +7 with the kicker knob at full.

Now I’m at +2 on EQ and knob at about 3/4 and can really feel the sub working.

It’s disappointing that kicker doesn’t have this as the default install option.

All Gains up on the amp, and full bars on EQ, my switch doesn't go past 50% because the RVM might fall off.

Agreed, this is the way it should be installed. Let the customer determine the bass level, the kicker knob is a must have with this accessory.

 

[8ball_99]

I think the only reason the oem kicker sub is tapped into the front passenger door speaker is just for easy install. Single enclosed wire harness and all the connections are made up in the passenger floor board area. Tapping into the sub wire requires you to open up that wire harness in the back seat and remove some tape, then wrap it back up. Not a big deal really. Does take more time and effort though. Pretty sure they try to make factory accessories as quick and easy as they can for dealers to install.

IMO, Definitely is better to tap into the actual sub channel for the kicker sub. Better signal and like I said earlier the bass adjustment on the head unit seems to impact the the sub more. Which makes sense, cause the signal to the factory speakers is adjusted in the Bose amp. They aren't going to send low frequencies to the door speakers the same way they would to the actual factory sub. Regardless how much you turn the bass up in the head unit.

 

[ZR2NYC]

Gonna start with the rear speakers and work my way forward. 22 ZR2 bose is garbage.

 

[zrdeuce]

Garbage indeed

 

[ZR2NYC]

Garbage indeed

i traded my 21 sierra denali for the ZR2 and im shocked at the difference. sierra bose was 10x better. bass , mids and highs were perfectly matched and didnt distort when i cranked my Disturbed, Godsmack or Kid Rick. i'll fix it and gonna start with rears. Memphis gets good reviews.

 

[502ZR2]

8ball_99, impressive install and detail. Thanks for sharing! I may be interested in upgrading my speakers at some point, but not sure I can stomach tearing apart the inside! Glad to hear someone has successfully done it.