Range Technology Beta Testing

The best way to look at it is, do I have $229 to spare for better performance, smoother operation and reduced chances for lifter failure? if you don't them better pass.
 
The best way to look at it is, do I have $229 to spare for better performance, smoother operation and reduced chances for lifter failure? if you don't them better pass.
The two I have both run great the way they are from the factory. I bought one anyway, so I could tell the truth about the performance without the bias.
 
I guess if you decided you didnt like it or it changed nothing, you can always remove it.
 
I installed mine the other day. The biggest thing I've noticed is how much smoother it idles. Before it was a bit rough while running in park. My old Denali was the same. Both trucks were bought new. Then, after a few years the denali got rougher and rougher, until it started running like crap and the cel started flashing. Took it to the dealer where they said it had a bad injector. Replaced all of them with plugs and there was no change. It was clearly internal damage. I unloaded that piece of crap and got a new truck. Both the Denali and the zr2 had the same sporadic rough idle. Don't want the zr2 to have the same fate, so if this helps to alleviate stress on the system, it's an easy decision.
 
ChrisTX, ignore some of these dipchits, you sound like you're more onto this than anyone so far. anyone that thinks you need to spend time on a forum to know anything obviously doesn't know anything. so why does the oil pump control cut pressure in the deactivation then? another energy saving measure? do you agree stopping the deactivation should reduce lifter failure?

So I drove 280 miles today on a rural eastern OR highway with little traffic, lots of corners and lots of hills. there is a definite better throttle response, less downshifting , better compression holdback on hill descent, sounds better and I notice no symptoms of valve deactivation at any time. maybe there is, if so it's nothing worth mentioning.

None of this surprises me, what does surprise me is my fuel economy is 2/10 MPG better than it's ever been on the same trip. I'll have to see this play out over time before I'm going to say it helps the MPG, but I'm comfortable saying it's not going to make it noticeably lower.
The point of DFM is to save fuel by switching the engine to a more efficient mode of operation at light load. It takes the same amount of power to move you down the road at 60mph whether it’s running on 4 or 6 or 8 cylinders. When DFM is active the engine has the throttle valve open more than it would running on 8 cylinders which reduces pumping loss while the engine is in that mode. Reducing parasitic drag by controlling oil pump output is part of reducing losses on the engine. The oil pressure really isn’t a concern with these engines as they all have high volume oil pumps. That pump moves a lot of oil around in a hurry.

In real world driving DFM is worth around 1mpg. Is it worth it to deal with the drivetrain vibrations? I personally don’t think so and that’s me. As soon as this device came out I bought one for my 23 and it’s been great for the week or so it’s been installed.
 
The two I have both run great the way they are from the factory. I bought one anyway, so I could tell the truth about the performance without the bias.

I hope you didn't spend $229 just to tell us the truth. that old saying a penny for your thoughts, would be overvalued.

I am impressed with the product, and I'd buy it again. I'm not compensated by Holley in any way so I'm not sure why I'd be biased. so, take it for what it's worth I don't care either way.
 
I hope you didn't spend $229 just to tell us the truth. that old saying a penny for your thoughts, would be overvalued.

I am impressed with the product, and I'd buy it again. I'm not compensated by Holley in any way so I'm not sure why I'd be biased. so, take it for what it's worth I don't care either way.
What if I agree with you in my unbiased review?

I wasn't really suggesting you were biased. But you stated your rig didn't run as good before the module was added, but better afterwards. Mine seem to run pretty good stock, so it'll be interesting to see if I notice a difference in the short run.

By the way, I've had stock AFM rigs run fine for 100-125k miles, so this might take 10 years before I can offer a final opinion.........you gonna be around then?
 
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So the DFM delete doesn't seem to be the battery culprit...Not sure what was...
But it needed a new battery..
After a couple hundred more miles on a new Battery all seems good.. I love the smoothness of the engine! Oh my milage today was 20.3 in 71 miles travel. Outside temp around 60 deg. so I have to say I'm liking that!
 
So the DFM delete doesn't seem to be the battery culprit...Not sure what was...
But it needed a new battery..
After a couple hundred more miles on a new Battery all seems good.. I love the smoothness of the engine! Oh my milage today was 20.3 in 71 miles travel. Outside temp around 60 deg. so I have to say I'm liking that!
I emailed Range about battery drain, no response.
 
No, I'm still in the truck order process. But was curious about the battery drain issue, so I thought I would go to the source. Maybe the Range module is not the assignable cause.
Gotcha.
 
Mine finally shipped. They sure arent shipping anywhere fast. It was late shipping out to begin with and says it wont be here til Thursday of next week. Ive had stuff from California make it here through the USPS faster than that lol.
 

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