New Oil Viscosity Recommended

[AXE]

Started up just fine. Was actually a little quieter lol.

Then I'm going 20W50, cause that's even better!

Probably get 20 mpg too!

 

[Byrds8]

Then I'm going 20W50, cause that's even better!

We all know this is a BS bandaid to get past most warranties. It may eventually come back and bite them in the ass if it doesnt turn out like they think it will. What they gonna do when someone with an extended warranty shows up with the same issue at 90K miles.

 

[AXE]

We all know this is a BS bandaid to get past most warranties. It may eventually come back and bite them in the ass if it doesnt turn out like they think it will. What they gonna do when someone with an extended warranty shows up with the same issue at 90K miles.

Did you scan for the P0016 code? I am guessing short of tear down thats the only test that might indicate problems. Nobody will really know what is going to happen with their rig.

To some degree, you are breaking in your motor again. The thicker oil will not penetrate the tiniest of gaps as well, so there will be additional wear. Is that good or bad long term for wear? Conversely, it may fill larger gaps better for higher mileage motors, perhaps what you're hearing.

The 0W20 Dexos oil was always marketed as fuel conserving, better for tight manufacturing tolerances, and compatible with modern emissions systems (likely AFM/DFM). For many years the Dexos stamp did not even go beyond 30 weight oil.

 

[Byrds8]

No codes. I agree 100% with everything you’re saying. In the end, no one will know what will happen. As for mileage, it hasn’t even hit 29k yet. Personally I think it always should have had a 30w oil. I’m surprised they went so heavy and aggressive. However, since it’s under warranty, I’ll go with that they said. Maybe after I’ll either ditch the truck or switch oils.

 

[TexOffroader]

Wouldn’t the P0016 illuminate something on the DIC? Seems like a serious condition. I’m betting they already know most or none won’t have this code and it’s window dressing for the NHTSA. I know I’ve harped on this but owning a 6.2L out of warranty is fairly risky which is why long term resale value is a concern.

 

[AXE]

I just picked mine up at the dealer. My regular service advisor and the one next to him both said it was just a band aid fix to stop some of the bleeding. Said they are already getting a lot of calls.

It was busier on Saturday than during the week. I seen the service manager talking to the GM, so I walked over there and asked him why he wasn't out back changing oil on the 6.2Ls. He laughed and shook his head. He said they have not been given any "engineering notes" with respect to the 6.2L recall. He said from prior failures they've repaired, GM has told them it was a result of delamination of the main crank and rod bearings. Likely due to inferior parts and maintenance practices. Without me asking, he said "one of the key issues resulting in problems is due to long change intervals". He said "I would never run more than 3k intervals" He said "read the manual and all the caveats about long intervals". He said "long intervals were to lower ownership costs, but it does the opposite".

He has 4 6.2L motors in his personal fleet, one is a track rig that he runs Amsoil in and he only runs it for a few hours before he changes it.

He said he didn’t think changing the oil weight will make a huge difference, especially if you haven't done frequent oil changes. He said the 40 weight oil will boost pressure and theoretically push the oil deeper into the gaps and it might help help to some degree with bearings that may have excessive wear. He said he wouldn't change oil unless it was due.

These guys are pretty straight shooters, I've had the same SA since 1997. Sounds like others are getting similar information. They said they would let me know when they get more details. So if I hear anything, I'll post it up.

 

[Byrds8]

I just picked mine up at the dealer. My regular service advisor and the one next to him both said it was just a band aid fix to stop some of the bleeding. Said they are already getting a lot of calls.

It was busier on Saturday than during the week. I seen the service manager talking to the GM, so I walked over there and asked him why he wasn't out back changing oil on the 6.2Ls. He laughed and shook his head. He said they have not been given any "engineering notes" with respect to the 6.2L recall. He said from prior failures they've repaired, GM has told them it was a result of delamination of the main crank and rod bearings. Likely due to inferior parts and maintenance practices. Without me asking, he said "one of the key issues resulting in problems is due to long change intervals". He said "I would never run more than 3k intervals" He said "read the manual and all the caveats about long intervals". He said "long intervals were to lower ownership costs, but it does the opposite".

He has 4 6.2L motors in his personal fleet, one is a track rig that he runs Amsoil in and he only runs it for a few hours before he changes it.

He said he didn’t think changing the oil weight will make a huge difference, especially if you haven't done frequent oil changes. He said the 40 weight oil will boost pressure and theoretically push the oil deeper into the gaps and it might help help to some degree with bearings that may have excessive wear. He said he wouldn't change oil unless it was due.

These guys are pretty straight shooters, I've had the same SA since 1997. Sounds like others are getting similar information. They said they would let me know when they get more details. So if I hear anything, I'll post it up.

That's about what we all said right? Bandaid to get past warranty. I still think 40 might have been a bit much and 30 would work like it did for years. 20, IMHO, is too thin.

I can say, from changing mine, It seems the oil pressure may be slightly higher than before. Nothing astronomical though. Maybe sitting 30-35 at hot idle. That's just guessing off the dash though.

 

[AXE]

That's about what we all said right? Bandaid to get past warranty. I still think 40 might have been a bit much and 30 would work like it did for years. 20, IMHO, is too thin.

I can say, from changing mine, It seems the oil pressure may be slightly higher than before. Nothing astronomical though. Maybe sitting 30-35 at hot idle. That's just guessing off the dash though.

One thing he said was that he thought the oil pressure would stay higher cruising, as opposed to how it drops off with the lighter oil. He said theoretically that should keep the oil where it helps.

I think we just roll with it and hope for the best. We're all going to be running 0W40 in 6 months, so we'll see where it all ends.

I told him how many oil changes and lab tests I've done and how they line up with all the 6.2L averages in the database and he just nodded and said that's good maintenance. I'm not terribly concerned about mine. I would like to run the Tahoe for 5 years, so I might get a warranty for that. Not sure I'll keep the 1500 past factory warranty. Which by the way, powertrain is 5 years, the bumper to bumper is 3 years......I think.

 

[Byrds8]

One thing he said was that he thought the oil pressure would stay higher cruising, as opposed to how it drops off with the lighter oil. He said theoretically that should keep the oil where it helps.

I think we just roll with it and hope for the best. We're all going to be running 0W40 in 6 months, so we'll see where it all ends.

I told him how many oil changes and lab tests I've done and how they line up with all the 6.2L averages in the database and he just nodded and said that's good maintenance. I'm not terribly concerned about mine. I would like to run the Tahoe for 5 years, so I might get a warranty for that. Not sure I'll keep the 1500 past factory warranty. Which by the way, powertrain is 5 years, the bumper to bumper is 3 years......I think.

I would love to say I recalled what my oil pressure was cruising but I dont. If I had to guess, it's around 50 now. Its definitely not at 60 (the middle).

All we can do is hope for the best. We know nothing is made to last. Would be nice if it would be.

I change mine somewhere between 3500-5000 miles. I think the lowest on the dash is at 25% life left. Yeah the PT is 5/60 and the B2B is 3/36. I will say, I had the wife smell the oil after we ran around today. It no longer has a fuel smell like it did with the 0W20.

 

[AXE]

I would love to say I recalled what my oil pressure was cruising but I dont. If I had to guess, it's around 50 now. Its definitely not at 60 (the middle).

All we can do is hope for the best. We know nothing is made to last. Would be nice if it would be.

I change mine somewhere between 3500-5000 miles. I think the lowest on the dash is at 25% life left. Yeah the PT is 5/60 and the B2B is 3/36. I will say, I had the wife smell the oil after we ran around today. It no longer has a fuel smell like it did with the 0W20.

Interesting! I asked that Service Manager about fuel dilution. He said it can happen, but he also said it was rare and some of that smell may be from all the additives in the oil. I think the only way to know is lab tests. Not too many show fuel contamination.

 

[Byrds8]

Used the same oil in the jeep and the truck and the only time it had a fuel smell was the truck. I chalked it up to it being DI.

 

[AXE]

I was just in my rig and looked at the oil pressure dummy guage in the lower DIC. It was about 45-50 ish at start up, then idled about 35-40 ish, would run 50 ish at 1500 rpm and 60 ish at 2500-3000 rpm (max in park). I thought that looked pretty decent.

Might check it with my Torque Pro app and get some better numbers for comparison when I switch over to 40.

 

[Byrds8]

Looks about like mine. Mine at hot idle was lower than it is now. Still witting normal ranges though. Granted it being a dummy gauge who knows what the real numbers were.

 

[AXE]

Looks about like mine. Mine at hot idle was lower than it is now. Still witting normal ranges though. Granted it being a dummy gauge who knows what the real numbers were.

Is there a better guage in the DIC? I really can't remember.

 

[Byrds8]

naw. All that shit is approximates. If I still had a reader I could look with it but the old one I had didbt work with global b so I gave the reader to my neighbor.

 

[MNNJR69]

I just picked mine up at the dealer. My regular service advisor and the one next to him both said it was just a band aid fix to stop some of the bleeding. Said they are already getting a lot of calls.

It was busier on Saturday than during the week. I seen the service manager talking to the GM, so I walked over there and asked him why he wasn't out back changing oil on the 6.2Ls. He laughed and shook his head. He said they have not been given any "engineering notes" with respect to the 6.2L recall. He said from prior failures they've repaired, GM has told them it was a result of delamination of the main crank and rod bearings. Likely due to inferior parts and maintenance practices. Without me asking, he said "one of the key issues resulting in problems is due to long change intervals". He said "I would never run more than 3k intervals" He said "read the manual and all the caveats about long intervals". He said "long intervals were to lower ownership costs, but it does the opposite".

He has 4 6.2L motors in his personal fleet, one is a track rig that he runs Amsoil in and he only runs it for a few hours before he changes it.

He said he didn’t think changing the oil weight will make a huge difference, especially if you haven't done frequent oil changes. He said the 40 weight oil will boost pressure and theoretically push the oil deeper into the gaps and it might help help to some degree with bearings that may have excessive wear. He said he wouldn't change oil unless it was due.

These guys are pretty straight shooters, I've had the same SA since 1997. Sounds like others are getting similar information. They said they would let me know when they get more details. So if I hear anything, I'll post it up.

And everyone smirks when I change mine every 2.5k To me 5k-10k is just way too long for my mental comfort.

My pressure is same. Low when at temp, higher when warming up. I use Pennzoil Platinum ultimate full synth. I use K&N oil filters.

BTW, I still have my last oil filter I have not cut open yet. I don't want to cut it with the sawzall or a hacksaw cuz I don't want to get any metal mixed in. I have a large pair of tin snips, but they're not big enough. How do you get yours open?

 

[MNNJR69]

LMFAO......caps gonna cost $5 million......new TSB will call for a paint pen and a monkey to change filler cap labels while customer waits.

 

[MNNJR69]

Here's what is listed in OnStar. Had to do two separate pictures to get the last sentence about bearing and rod failure.

You can do one long screen shot....just hold the down tab before saving right after you start the screenshot.....

 

[MNNJR69]

Here's what is listed in OnStar. Had to do two separate pictures to get the last sentence about bearing and rod failure.

Like this.....

 

[AXE]

You can do one long screen shot....just hold the down tab before saving right after you start the screenshot.....

I'm not that clever! I just got a new phone. I ran over my other one. I didn't realize how bad my other one was until I got this new one.......probably all kinds of stuff I could learn......lol