ZR2NYC
Well-known member
thanks...all good info. i think im gonna have dealer install. quoted me $140. can you confirm there is no more bass control knob?
Kicker Subwoofer
- Thread starter Riggs
- Start date
I think I have a newer unit as some of the guys on here mentioned. Looks like kicker/Gm removed the bass controller and dip switches for gain from the design. If you have the kicker sub in hand you can take a quick look around for the audio jack, if it’s missing you have a newer unit most likely. If you have doubts about what you version of the sub you have , buy the bass controller from Amazon just in case it’s needed. You can return if not, runs about 40 bucks.
The enclosure makes a speaker more then watts or size. I will say that the enclosure is tuned very well for the Kicker 10”.
A sealed box is less boomy but tighter in its sound reproduction. Price for performance it’s fantastic.
ZR2NYC
Well-known member
installed these in rear doors. Memphis component system with crossovers. you have the option to mount tweeter separate or together with woofer as i did. they sound ok with added highs. hopefully the Kicker Sub will round out an otherwise crappy Bose.
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That’s the biggest issue with the audio in these trucks. No tweeters. It makes everything sound muddy. Outside of an actual subwoofer.
No highs, No Lows, must be Bose.
Bose specializes in sound processing to create a digital full soundstage from small drivers. It attempts to synthesize a complete spectrum from what are effectively midrange drivers.
Once anyone experiences fidelity outside of throwing a massive subwoofer(s) in a vehicle or any audio system you can’t go back.
The lack of raw wattage output and a a real equalizer will quickly over power the system with the installation of tweeters. You will go from mud to tin can quickly.
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ZR2NYC
Well-known member
well said and spot on. while certainly no deal breaker in my purchase of the ZR2, i took for granted the Bose in my 21 sierra denali. i figured it would be the same or even better. ZR2 is the flagship truck. i wonder if it can be fixed with software???? where the hell is security guy ????????
A kicker subwoofer kind of fell in my lap from a friend, so I had it installed to see how great (or modestly decent) it really is. My honest review is if you can find one used on the cheap, then go for it. I would not pay retail + install for the OEM Kicker Subwoofer.
It does provide some fill in the low frequencies, but lacks any punch. Its more of an ambient fill, and there is still a substantial gap in frequencies where the low mids are missing, and the high mids and highs come on way too strong if you turn the volume up to get enough power to the new subwoofer.
I have the JL Stealthbox with two 12s sitting in the box in my garage. I guess I just need to bite the bullet and do the full $5k install to make that worth it. That install would look like new speakers all around, a DSP amp, soundmat, labor etc.
It does provide some fill in the low frequencies, but lacks any punch. Its more of an ambient fill, and there is still a substantial gap in frequencies where the low mids are missing, and the high mids and highs come on way too strong if you turn the volume up to get enough power to the new subwoofer.
I have the JL Stealthbox with two 12s sitting in the box in my garage. I guess I just need to bite the bullet and do the full $5k install to make that worth it. That install would look like new speakers all around, a DSP amp, soundmat, labor etc.
It does what can do given what it is. A low power, low excursion, sealed 10” enclosure. Punchy bass by design needs a ported box, More watts, and more excursion.
However, Anyone who walks into the dealer, pays retail, and the dealer rate to install it is being robbed in broad daylight.
I believe I paid about 700 for mine. And it’s absolutely worth that much.
I think swapping the 6x9’s in the doors for 2ohm 3-way (factory impedance) units work make a nice difference. I’ve thought about stepping the rear speakers down to 2ohm 3-way 6.5’s as well for more volume.
The systems in these trucks are more “Bose” then what’s typical for that name with sound reproduction.
Matt Trakker
Active member
Did you swap the 6x9s in the doors? If so, what did you swap to?
Regarding replacing the stock "bose" speakers, Crutchfield responded to me that swapping out for another model speaker without doing a full DSP amp as well may actually sound worse. You would be relying on the bose tuned head unit to power speakers that probably require more power to run and are not matched to the head unit.
Do you have experience with just changing the door and dash speakers with an efficient (but better)speaker, and having it sound better than stock? Those rear door speakers are especially quiet and worthless.
If you did, what models did you go with? Thanks! You always provide good info on here!
The only speakers I would swap the fronts for with factory amplification are these https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE692/PowerBass-OE-692T.html?tp=105
Anything with higher impedance will decrease effective wattage and volume. Making the dash speakers even more overpowering.
One of the guys on here has sat an ohm meter on the speakers and if memory serves me right dash is 3.4ish front doors are 2 and rears are 4. Which is why the rears don’t exist on the soundstage.
Try playing with the fade. Set the fade to almost where the seat cushion meets the seat back on the “overlay” on the screen. Will make a big difference.
They also make 2ohm 6.5” three ways that would “fit” in the rear. But crutchfield doesn’t explicitly list them as compatible with our trucks. Even a proper 2-3 way 4 ohm 6.5 would be upgrade over the puny speakers that exist back there. Just be careful not to go bonkers with huge magnet high wattage drivers that like crutchfield said, would be so underpowered it would be setting money on fire.
It’s a phone call I haven’t gotten around yet to making. As the audio situation is still a work in progress for me.
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Factory Rear doors are 3.6 ohms. The front doors are 2.0 ohm. Dash speakers are 3.4 ohm. I did replace all mine and added tweeters in the A pillars, But I also put in a Amp with a built in DSP. I never tried it with just the speakers. I used Infinity Kappa speakers that had a Ohm rating of 2.8. One of the reasons I went with those was incase the amp/Dsp didn't work out. I figured the factory Bose amp could push the 2.8 ohm speakers. I also have the factory Kicker sub. Mine came with the other style amp. I ended up replacing it with a different amp anyway. I've been very happy with the kicker sub overall. Sounds good to me and allowed me to keep some under seat storage. Worth it to me. Sure you could do better if you didn't mind giving up the storage space.
The EQ curve on the factory amp is a little wonky. I'm not sure how good it would sound just doing speakers, But you could always try it. Just keep in mind you might end up also having to add a amp/dsp. The low sound from the rear speakers isn't their Ohm rating. The level going to them is low. They actually have a pretty full range signal going to them unlike the other speakers. The power level is just much lower than what goes to the other speakers. I'm sure they were setup to just be rear fill.
The EQ curve on the factory amp is a little wonky. I'm not sure how good it would sound just doing speakers, But you could always try it. Just keep in mind you might end up also having to add a amp/dsp. The low sound from the rear speakers isn't their Ohm rating. The level going to them is low. They actually have a pretty full range signal going to them unlike the other speakers. The power level is just much lower than what goes to the other speakers. I'm sure they were setup to just be rear fill.
Thanks for the detailed info. I will get back on here if I do a swap out to let you know how it goes.
Great info also! The OEM kicker sub that was given to me also had the extra 200 watt amp for the "non-bose" system. Is there any way I could still install that amp in addition to the kicker box with the amp already in it, and then use the extra amp to power some new door speakers? What is the intended purpose of that extra 200 watt amp anyways?
Sorry by other amp, I meant mine came with the old style 200 watt amp that is screwed to the speaker box. The one that has the plug for the bass knob and has the rubber plug with the DIP switches under it to adjust the gain. I was the one who actually posted on here last year about the bass knob and how to adjust the DIP switches lol. I replaced my amp though with a different kicker amp that is rated for 300watt RMS and has RCA inputs. The amp on the OEM kicker sub only has high level inputs. Swapping the amp gave my sub more wattage, But also it allowed me to connect it directly to my DSP for tuning reasons.
I think, that extra amp for the non bose system is just to amp the factory speakers. I don't have any experience with that one. I'm not sure if it could be repurposed. I doubt it would be worth the hassle. If you wanted to replace the bose speakers and add a amp. Probably better off just buying a 4 or 6 channel amp or doing like I did and just get a amp with a built in DSP. I went that way because of space. Same reason why I went with the OEM kicker.
Adjusting the dip switches did make a difference. Thanks for that bit of info!
Can't you install a separate amp rheostat controller to adjust the sound independently. Should plug into the amp.
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