Break in oil

[AXE]

You cannot convince some people. Been running the Amsoil for over 35 years. Have run it everything from my 850hp highly modified C7 ZO6 (racing oil is red) to AMG MB's, Porsche's, Jeeps and not to mention all of my oil burners GM, Dodge, Ram and Fords. Do not run it in wife's Beemers because they do it for free.

NOACK is one big reason I run Amsoil.

My family has run hundreds of 55 and 35 gallon drums of Mobil oil through everything for 8 decades. On the farm, an IH dealership, and everthing else with wheels. Throw in several hundred gallons of Rotella and some other random shit from Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Mercury, Johnson, blah, blah, blah and never once have I though I had "the best oil". But I damn sure knew it would work just fine.

I have no problem with Amsoil and have no doubt its a decent oil, but the most insufferable MF's in an oil thread are always Team Amsoil. Must be how they got brainwashed in the first place......watch em roll into their spiel now.....LOL.

 

[44sixpack]

Zinc and phosphorus levels in the high dollar oils are a lot of what makes them better. among other things. no matter how you spin it the standard oils cannot compete with that, it's what kept flat tappets alive. is it guaranteed to help the modern roller lifter problems ? no. but it might, that is good enough for me.

Blackstone is who did the tests on the other forum. they said Redline and Amsoil were the better than the factory oil ( SRT by Pennzoil ) and Mobile 1 from the dozens of tests sent in. know the facts and make your own decisions there's nothing in it for me.

 

[AXE]

Zinc and phosphorus levels in the high dollar oils are a lot of what makes them better. among other things. no matter how you spin it the standard oils cannot compete with that, it's what kept flat tappets alive. is it guaranteed to help the modern roller lifter problems ? no. but it might, that is good enough for me.

Blackstone is who did the tests on the other forum. they said Redline and Amsoil were the better than the factory oil ( SRT by Pennzoil ) and Mobile 1 from the dozens of tests sent in. know the facts and make your own decisions there's nothing in it for me.

Thers always a point of diminishing returns where more is not moar better(Bizon). You could throw in more additives and it won't necessarily just make the product do more than the next.

It's like the the first piece of cake...... it's so good, you want another.........by the third piece you hate cake.

 

[44sixpack]

That's true, but modern gas engine oils have basically no zinc and phosphorus. so nothing is a lot less than enough.

 

[AXE]

That's true, but modern gas engine oils have basically no zinc and phosphorus. so nothing is a lot less than enough.

Which modern oils don't have decent zinc and phosphorous? My own tests have shown that Mobil 1 and Rotella have decent amounts (definitely not the highest). Amsoil definitely had some of the highest zinc counts.

I seen a recent oil test that Project Farm did on YouTube for car manufacturers oils. Surprisingly Toyota had a conparitively low zinc count, which you don't associate lower quality with their name. Ford's Motorcraft oil was the best. GM's ACDelco was good too, so if that's what your dealer is using, you're getting a decent oil.

There's a lot of information on the website Bob's the Oil Guy. Some damn good arguments too.....LOL. You could read ad nauseum and change your mind about oil 10 times in a month.

 

[22-ZR2]

This “best oil” has been going on for a long time. I have been on forums for as long as I can remember. I would tell the poster that they will be more confused by all the different opinions. The long time members would chime in with a bowl of popcorn picture every time someone would ask the question, it was quite amusing and it would be asked on a regular basis. The post would be 3-4 pages long, lots of different opinions. Most important is good quality oil and change it on a regular basis. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and use what oil they consider the best. There is no perfect answer.

 

[RCF71]

I have been using Mobil 1/Delvac 1 all my “educated” years with no problems, great oil analyses (Blackstone) with “continue using” recommended on ‘em all, etc. I have to admit some of those Mobil Delvac samples might have had as much as 20k miles on it with just new filters and top-offs every 5k. I am a chemical engineer by degree and love conducting tests, experiments, etc., hence the aforementioned “testing”… but got bored at 20k mile intervals, and left it there. I will say the rest of the truck was falling apart when I moved on, but the engine, including the turbo (Cummins 5.9), had zero issues ever! And it was cranked up from 215hp to 450hp.

 

[XkenX]

Fun stuff.
Many oil articles out there about how older motors and flat tappets require higher zinc and phosphorus. New motors not so much because of design and coatings used on bearings. It does not stick as much. Also it was the car manufacturers that requested less of these chemicals due to higher doses
In modern engines causing issues with pollution control because of excess. If you have a engine that requires higher dose then you can buy a additive to achieve this

 

[securityguy]

Fun stuff.
Many oil articles out there about how older motors and flat tappets require higher zinc and phosphorus. New motors not so much because of design and coatings used on bearings. It does not stick as much. Also it was the car manufacturers that requested less of these chemicals due to higher doses
In modern engines causing issues with pollution control because of excess. If you have a engine that requires higher dose then you can buy a additive to achieve this

You're just not getting it @XkenX...he want's you to buy Amsoil because its moar better

 

[XkenX]

You're just not getting it @XkenX...he was you to buy Amsoil because its moar better

I get that part. Awful pushy with your judgements, I use Amsoil in all of my race bikes and Harleys. Was just sharing history why there is less zinc in oil these days.

 

[securityguy]

I get that part. Awful pushy with your judgements, I use Amsoil in all of my race bikes and Harleys. Was just sharing history why there is less zinc in oil these days.

No judgements...just fact. If it truly was necessary, I'd be doing it...trust me.

 

[securityguy]

This “best oil” has been going on for a long time. I have been on forums for as long as I can remember. I would tell the poster that they will be more confused by all the different opinions. The long time members would chime in with a bowl of popcorn picture every time someone would ask the question, it was quite amusing and it would be asked on a regular basis. The post would be 3-4 pages long, lots of different opinions. Most important is good quality oil and change it on a regular basis. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and use what oil they consider the best. There is no perfect answer.

AMEN!

 

[XkenX]

No judgements...just fact. If it truly was necessary, I'd be doing it...trust me.

On my car and trucks I just run factory suggested oil and do proper oil changes depending on towing or non towing. I sold my suburban last year and changed oil around 4000 miles avg. That little 5.3 was still strong after 292,000. Got 7200 for 22 year old vehicle.
It was well maintained.

 

[NullNomad]

Let me just say it’s refreshing to see a new back and forth from opposing views that doesn’t involve cold air intakes.

 

[XkenX]

Let me just say it’s refreshing to see a new back and forth from opposing views that doesn’t involve cold air intakes.

I use all kinds of oils for different applications. Race bikes I prefer high end on motors that rev over 10,000
Rpm. I can see in sight glass the color and seems to last a little longer maybe a hour. all depends on clutch abuse.

 

[Waterdog]

I believe the 0-20 stuff came about because of gov regulations. There’s no way 0-20 is better in 100 degree heat than a higher viscosity oil. Is it adequate? Probably. But a one oil fits all from a MN climate (0-20 is probably perfect there) to a S FL or AZ climate is not the best solution. Like I stated before. In the Tundra manual states that using a higher viscosity oil in warmer climates is recommended but the dealer will push the 0-20 on you and tell you the engine will self destruct with anything but 0-20 and the manual is wrong.

 

[AXE]

I believe the 0-20 stuff came about because of gov regulations. There’s no way 0-20 is better in 100 degree heat than a higher viscosity oil. Is it adequate? Probably. But a one oil fits all from a MN climate (0-20 is probably perfect there) to a S FL or AZ climate is not the best solution. Like I stated before. In the Tundra manual states that using a higher viscosity oil in warmer climates is recommended but the dealer will push the 0-20 on you and tell you the engine will self destruct with anything but 0-20 and the manual is wrong.

I live in AZ and I've clocked a couple hundred k miles on vehicles running 0W20 the last 10 years. Heat doesn't seem to be an issue with that weight oil. I do know it's one of the reasons they went from 6 quarts to 8 quarts. Oil analysis tests were pretty close to same at 2500 miles as 5000 miles for the Mobil 1.

I towed my 6k lb boat about 50 miles this week. It was 112°F on the return trip. Motor ran at same temps and transmission did not break 174 degrees. Speed was 55-65 mph in variable terrain. I feel like the cooling system for the 6.2L motor and transmission on these trucks is highly efficient.

It was 118 here yesterday.b it's a pretty good testing ground. Palm Springs was 124. No warm up required......LOL.

 

[AXE]

Fun stuff.
Many oil articles out there about how older motors and flat tappets require higher zinc and phosphorus. New motors not so much because of design and coatings used on bearings. It does not stick as much. Also it was the car manufacturers that requested less of these chemicals due to higher doses
In modern engines causing issues with pollution control because of excess. If you have a engine that requires higher dose then you can buy a additive to achieve this

One of the things I notice about oils with higher zinc and phosphorus (e.g., Amsoil, Shaeffers) is that they have slower cold start up flow characteristics. In theory, there is more wear at start up because many of the wear surfaces don't have adequate oil.

One thing you'll notice about Mobil 1 is while it has less zinc and phosphorus, it has higher molybdenum. In fact, Moly has always been a good anti wear lubricant.

 

[securityguy]

On my car and trucks I just run factory suggested oil and do proper oil changes depending on towing or non towing. I sold my suburban last year and changed oil around 4000 miles avg. That little 5.3 was still strong after 292,000. Got 7200 for 22 year old vehicle.
It was well maintained.

Exactly our points...you take care of any engine like you should and use a good quality oil filter and oil that meets/exceed specs, the engine will last just as long as if you spent 2X for the filter and 2-3X for the oil. I have always changed the oil on every vehicle I've ever owned at 5K intervals even though the manufacturer may have said 7,500 or 10,000. I always do my first OC at 1-1.5K as well to get the factory fill and any crap out of the pan. Now Cold Air Intakes are another issue people just don't seem to understand ...right @NullNomad???

 

[NullNomad]

Now Cold Air Intakes are another issue people just don't seem to understand ...right @NullNomad???

When the math simply doesn’t math…