Break in oil

[Busa Dave]

I believe the 0-20 stuff came about because of gov regulations. There’s no way 0-20 is better in 100 degree heat than a higher viscosity oil. Is it adequate? Probably. But a one oil fits all from a MN climate (0-20 is probably perfect there) to a S FL or AZ climate is not the best solution. Like I stated before. In the Tundra manual states that using a higher viscosity oil in warmer climates is recommended but the dealer will push the 0-20 on you and tell you the engine will self destruct with anything but 0-20 and the manual is wrong.

If you look at a modern engine it has smaller and more smaller ports for the oil to be sprayed into areas to keep the engine better lubricated and cooler and eliminating hot spots internally in the engine. The new Ford 7.3 gasser is a good example.

I have been running the recommended weights albeit it Amsoil Signature and currently run 5-40 year-round which is approved by GM. Was at the ranch this week for a frac going on and it was 112 one day with winds of 40mph. LOVE the high idle! Still blows out 34 degree air on recirculate idling.

 

[44sixpack]

Fun stuff.
Many oil articles out there about how older motors and flat tappets require higher zinc and phosphorus. New motors not so much because of design and coatings used on bearings. It does not stick as much. Also it was the car manufacturers that requested less of these chemicals due to higher doses
In modern engines causing issues with pollution control because of excess. If you have a engine that requires higher dose then you can buy a additive to achieve this

The main reason for the zinc and phosphorus was the flat tappets and cam themselves, the hydraulic roller lifter made surviving without zinc possible. but it still has value elsewhere.

Some people run the best oil, tires, and keep their rigs clean because they want to. some don't give a FF as long as they get from point A to B. like most things you get what you pay for, suit yourself.

 

[DNZR2]

I get that part. Awful pushy with your judgements, I use Amsoil in all of my race bikes and Harleys. Was just sharing history why there is less zinc in oil these days.

I just had to replace the motor in my Harley, first engine I ever blew. Cam bearing failure and I was using Amsoil. FWIW

 

[AXE]

1956 IH with an 5 speed inline 6. It's never ran anything but straight Mobil 30W oil. I charge the battery, freshen the gas it'll fire right up.

What's an Amsoil?

 

[Floriduramax1]

I happened to be a little frustrated today as I just turned 2900 miles on the odo. I wanted to dump the break in oil. I figured WTH I will try Amsoil in this one. This is my 4th Dmax and the last 3 would get the "typewriter tick" if I used any oil other than Mobil Delvac or Rotella dino oil. Well guess what. My new truck with 2905 miles sounds just like my old Dmax's when I tried synthetics! It's very loud and pronounced when it gets to operating temperature! Heading back to parts store for some Dino oil! Will report back if the typewriter ticks go away!

 

[AXE]

I happened to be a little frustrated today as I just turned 2900 miles on the odo. I wanted to dump the break in oil. I figured WTH I will try Amsoil in this one. This is my 4th Dmax and the last 3 would get the "typewriter tick" if I used any oil other than Mobil Delvac or Rotella dino oil. Well guess what. My new truck with 2905 miles sounds just like my old Dmax's when I tried synthetics! It's very loud and pronounced when it gets to operating temperature! Heading back to parts store for some Dino oil! Will report back if the typewriter ticks go away!

Dino oils.........undisputed rational heat motor champions since 1892 when Rudolf Diesel invented and filed the patent for the compression-ignition engine.

 

[Floriduramax1]

Dino oils.........undisputed rational heat champions since 1892 when Rudolf Diesel invented and filed the patent for the compression-ignition engine.

Yep..I know better too! My Harley Road Glide shifted terrible and the top end rattled when I was "upsold" a synthetic service! Not long after I received a bulletin warning against synthetic. I also bought one of the first Avalanches in 2002. I Changed the oil to Mobile 1 at 50 miles. By 89k miles that 5.3 was using enough oil between changes to tur the low oil light on. I decided to run Castrol 20/50 in it and turn it into a parts truck! At the time, I though damn these 5.3's suck! I sold it at 115k miles and it hadn't used a drop of oil between changes. My buddy has it on the original engine at 412k miles! I'm done paying the big bucks for synthetics...AGAIN...this time I mean it..lol I change oil at around 5k miles anyway....

 

[AXE]

Yep..I know better too! My Harley Road Glide shifted terrible and the top end rattled when I was "upsold" a synthetic service! Not long after I received a bulletin warning against synthetic. I also bought one of the first Avalanches in 2002. I Changed the oil to Mobile 1 at 50 miles. By 89k miles that 5.3 was using enough oil between changes to tur the low oil light on. I decided to run Castrol 20/50 in it and turn it into a parts truck! At the time, I though damn these 5.3's suck! I sold it at 115k miles and it hadn't used a drop of oil between changes. My buddy has it on the original engine at 412k miles! I'm done paying the big bucks for synthetics...AGAIN...this time I mean it..lol I change oil at around 5k miles anyway....

Interesting what you say about the tick. Was the Amsoil 5W or 15W?

I will have to listen to mine.more closely. I dropped my break in oil at 1000 miles, then ran Rotella T4 15W40 to about 5k. Just changed again to Rotella T6 15W40. I didn't notice anything after run ing it a few hundred miles. I haven't driven it much since then. I'll be back in it next week and see what I hear.

I wouldn't think twice about running 15W40 dino in my Duramax all the time. Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella, and Chevron Delo are running millions of miles a week in big rigs around the world.

 

[Floriduramax1]

Interesting what you say about the tick. Was the Amsoil 5W or 15W?

I will have to listen to mine.more closely. I dropped my break in oil at 1000 miles, then ran Rotella T4 15W40 to about 5k. Just changed again to Rotella T6 15W40. I didn't notice anything after run ing it a few hundred miles. I haven't driven it much since then. I'll be back in it next week and see what I hear.

 

[AXE]

I do think there is a case to be made for being "too slippery". I know my 2005 Duramax did not like synthetic oil, it would use a small amount. I did two changes with it and then went back to Mobil Delvac and ran it 150k miles.

 

[DNZR2]

Everyone thinks it’s AMS Oil but it’s not , it’s really AM Soil.

 

[Floriduramax1]

Everyone thinks it’s AMS Oil but it’s not , it’s really AM Soil.

 

[ZR2BIZON]

Everyone thinks it’s AMS Oil but it’s not , it’s really AM Soil.

Morning Soil? Never heard of such a drink!

 

[Floriduramax1]

I do think there is a case to be made for being "too slippery". I know my 2005 Duramax did not like synthetic oil, it would use a small amount. I did two changes with it and then went back to Mobil Delvac and ran it 150k miles.

I drained that Amsoil out and cant believe how thin it seems VS the Delvac! Here's the kicker. When I changed it last week, I only ordered 1 2.5gal jug of Amsoil. When I got done I started the truck and checked it after I shut it down and it was just over a quart low!. I ordered another jug of Amsoil and topped it up. Today I bought a 2.5gal as well as an additional gallon so I would have enough. I put the 2.5gal of Delvac in and run her. Shut her down and the oil level is dead on full mark! I didn't do anything different and it drained the same amount of time!!

Now the good stuff!! The typewriter tick is gone! That was driving me nuts! The bank teller asked my wife if she knew her truck was ticking! No more synthetic for me...

 

[44sixpack]

You can think whatever makes you feel better but synthetic is superior in every way. it's not a matter of opinion it's a proven science. a synthetic blend is offered only because it helps keep the price down, not because it's better.

Many engines require a full synthetic . some require at the minimum a synthetic blend. no engine will void the warranty for running a synthetic. why do you suppose that is?

 

[Floriduramax1]

You can think whatever makes you feel better but synthetic is superior in every way. it's not a matter of opinion it's a proven science. a synthetic blend is offered only because it helps keep the price down, not because it's better.

Many engines require a full synthetic . some require at the minimum a synthetic blend. no engine will void the warranty for running a synthetic. why do you suppose that is?

I don't care about "no engine will void the warranty for running a synthetic"...What I KNOW is every Duramax I have owned starting with a LB7 up to current L5P sounds like a typewriter when I use synthetic oil. They don't make the ticking noise on dino oil. It's embarrassing when you are asked by a server at a drive up window if you know your beautiful brand new truck is making a loud ticking noise! You do you...thank you!

 

[44sixpack]

If you have enough clearance somewhere that synthetic oil can't cushion it enough to quiet it down you either have a problem or a crap engine design.

Synthetic oil viscosity holds better than convention oil that's one reason it's required on many high performance engines. it also lubricates better and lasts longer. maybe it doesn't fill 1/4" gaps as well I don't know..

 

[Floriduramax1]

If you have enough clearance somewhere that synthetic oil can't cushion it enough to quiet it down you either have a problem or a crap engine design.

Synthetic oil viscosity holds better than convention oil that's one reason it's required on many high performance engines. it also lubricates better and lasts longer. maybe it doesn't fill 1/4" gaps as well I don't know..

Man, if you like synthetic oil fine. I bought all these D’Maxs brand new and have had the same tick. It’s awfully funny they don’t make the tick with any brand of Dino oil. As I said in my first post, it made my brand new Harley Road Glide rattle and the gear box very rough. Shortly after I let them upsale me on the synthetic oil, I received a bulletin from Harley saying not to use synthetic with my engine/gearbox. I ran full synthetic Mobil 1 in my 911 turbo as it was called for but when I switched to Rotella T-6 (yes synthetic) it took the Volkswagen rattle out of my six cylinder Metzger motor. I run T-6 in my Yamaha 300 hp outboards. But I’m done with synthetic in my D’Max trucks! Carry on!!

 

[44sixpack]

It's your rig use whatever you want, but even with minimal research you'll find I'm right. there is no debate synthetic is better , even in a duralax. cost is the Only downside.

But I seldom keep a diesel pickup past the warranty so I'm cheap too, and I usually don't run it either. in my performance gas engines the cost over conventional is so minimal I always run high end synthetic. it's a no brainer.

whatever I'm done.

 

[AXE]

If you have enough clearance somewhere that synthetic oil can't cushion it enough to quiet it down you either have a problem or a crap engine design.

Synthetic oil viscosity holds better than convention oil that's one reason it's required on many high performance engines. it also lubricates better and lasts longer. maybe it doesn't fill 1/4" gaps as well I don't know..

A fucking Duramax is not a high performance motor. It's an an everyday diesel motor that happens to perform highly respectably (I'm not even sure thats a real word, but since were making shit up anyway I'm running with it) when called to duty.