Under Seat Tray w/Kicker Sub

[wutang61]

The "Bose" system in the ZR2 has paper cones, a terrible amp, and a weak subwoofer buried in the center console. The $600 for the add-on above includes the enclosure, speaker and amp. "This subwoofer system includes a high-efficiency 10" big-bass subwoofer with integrated 200-watt amplifier." If you want a quick plug and play solution, these are a nice addition. If you want a much more legit audio system in your truck you need to swap out all the speakers and do a high quality amp and woofer in the back. The head unit also has a very basic EQ. Any new system would massively benefit by adding a sound processor also. That swap out would cost $1500-$2k, but could run up to $4k + if you really max it out.

Oh trust me. I’m not upselling the “premium system” in these trucks.

I personally purchased it because it is an OEM appearance plug and play “upgrade”

 

[dw886]

Oh trust me. I’m not upselling the “premium system” in these trucks.

I personally purchased it because it is an OEM appearance plug and play “upgrade”

Does this really just plug in, or do you have to run 12v power from the battery?

 

[wutang61]

Does this really just plug in, or do you have to run 12v power from the battery?

You have to run 12v power. And it’s a “tap” based system.

200W RMS Isn’t anything by Audio standards, but it’s a massive amount to pull from a random 12v lead.

Over 16 amps. The 120 outlets in the truck and the bed are 400w and amperage going to the inverter at max draw is well over 30.

Power plays different at low voltage.
Amps = Watts / Volts

Plug and play refers to an OE level of integration once installed. No generic gray carpet boxes with makeshift attachment points and pulling the dash apart for RCA outs and running 4 or 1/0 to the rear to an amp taking up the whole backseat.

Once it’s “done” it looks factory and technically you don’t cut any wires. I posted the installation guide.

 

[wutang61]

Few pics of my install today. Most of the time is spent routing the wiring neatly. Took a few pics of where I spliced into the harness.

I will say that the addition of the Kicker sub can be summed up with one word.

Significant.

It won’t rattlle your teeth out but it fills the massive hole that is the bottom end in these trucks. Compliments the system nicely.

 

[Ezmny4]

Few pics of my install today. Most of the time is spent routing the wiring neatly. Took a few pics of where I spliced into the harness.

I will say that the addition of the Kicker sub can be summed up with one word.

Significant.

It won’t rattlle your teeth out but it fills the massive hole that is the bottom end in these trucks. Compliments the system nicely.

did you trim your tray on the bottom to keep part of the original over where the jack is? I saw somebody else do this and I think I'd do the same once I get my truck and start making the modifications.

 

[wutang61]

did you trim your tray on the bottom to keep part of the original over where the jack is? I saw somebody else do this and I think I'd do the same once I get my truck and start making the modifications.

Yep. Cut the tray to fit up to the subwoofer

 

[Ezmny4]

Yep. Cut the tray to fit up to the subwoofer

I'll probably do the same. Just looks better.

 

[ox1574]

After installing the Kicker subwoofer, I felt something was missing where the Jack mounts. The sub requires the removal of the under seat storage bin. Not liking the sight or the Jack sitting there, I cut the removed bin to fit. I’m a lot more satisfied with how things look now.

I just installed my Kicker sub this week and I'm looking for a solution like you were. Did you find a single side box/bag to fit there? The issue with cutting the factory piece like you did is there isn't much additional space. The sub enclosure comes out much further and I would love to have a storage box to match and come out that far.

 

[The_Q]

I just installed my Kicker sub this week and I'm looking for a solution like you were. Did you find a single side box/bag to fit there? The issue with cutting the factory piece like you did is there isn't much additional space. The sub enclosure comes out much further and I would love to have a storage box to match and come out that far.

I never looked for any substitutes to what I have. The cut portion of the factory tray and the area provided by the Kicker sub are more than enough storage space for me.

 

[ZRBlueBeast2]

The "Bose" system in the ZR2 has paper cones, a terrible amp, and a weak subwoofer buried in the center console. The $600 for the add-on above includes the enclosure, speaker and amp. "This subwoofer system includes a high-efficiency 10" big-bass subwoofer with integrated 200-watt amplifier." If you want a quick plug and play solution, these are a nice addition. If you want a much more legit audio system in your truck you need to swap out all the speakers and do a high quality amp and woofer in the back. The head unit also has a very basic EQ. Any new system would massively benefit by adding a sound processor also. That swap out would cost $1500-$2k, but could run up to $4k + if you really max it out.

Hello and just looked up the price for this Kicker sub setup, but I guess at some point my speakers and everything else will go, maybe wait and save for $1500 to upgrade all speakers and put a sub and amp all together? I mean my Bose system sound ok, but barely any base to the music.