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My boy just bought a Colorado Trail Boss. It was already marked down 14%. He was able to negotiate a few other items on tint and fees.I am in Northwest NJ and looking to better understand how flexible of price the dealership would be. The model I am looking at is near $60k but wondering how flex they will be. Not leasing or financing, paying in cash, no trade in.. Any help is appreciated!
Cause the fucking government is bidding them up!The white ones are harder to negotiate because they are built moar better. Keep that in mind when shopping
Be careful with this. There are dealers out there that are binding you contractually to finance through their choice of lender to get the advertised lowest price, and the finance contract contains a clause that obligates you to reimburse the dealer for a certain percentage of the sale price if you pay off the loan earlier than 6 months after the finance date.You can also go ahead and finance and then just pay it off in a month to avoid interest.
For daycare transport in a certain stateCause the fucking government is bidding them up!
This is true, but you can simply ask finance once the deal is sealed what the stipulations are, and if they try to screw you, just walk.Be careful with this. There are dealers out there that are binding you contractually to finance through their choice of lender to get the advertised lowest price, and the finance contract contains a clause that obligates you to reimburse the dealer for a certain percentage of the sale price if you pay off the loan earlier than 6 months after the finance date.
Many states do not allow simple interest finance contracts to contain such clauses, but some do. Check before you go this route.
they are offering 6 years 100k warranty. I've also driven the Tacoma TRD Sport which is similar. THere are slight differences but not very many. I just want to negotiate the best price. They only have one black one on the lot so not sure how much wiggle room i have - it's not like they have a bunch they can't move.First off DO NOT TELL THEM YOU ARE PAYING CASH, that will remove a lot of your bargaining power, let them think you will finance until you agree on out the door price. You can also go ahead and finance and then just pay it off in a month to avoid interest. Their desire to negotiate anything off will depend a lot on how popular the truck is and if they have many for sale, along with how long it has been on the lot, anything approaching 3 months or more and it eats more into their profit margin. Even with all that, with a decent credit rating you should be able to negotiate down probably 7% or more, anything over 10% and you have a pretty good deal, just don’t let them soak you on the other things like tire and wheel protection, any kind of theft deterrent like etch or installed hardware like LoJack, etc. Given the complexity of these new vehicles you may want to consider an extended warranty if they offer one, I talked them down to cost on mine so it was only $1300 for a 6 year 70K warranty. Good luck and let us know how it goes. I did use GM Financial because it got me a 1.9% for 3 years which is much better than any bank or credit union could offer, I just knuckled under to pay it off in the 3 years and will pay less than $1400 in interest on $42K, and it gives me better cash flow than paying it off immediately.
You can go on the GM inventory website and see how many trucks are avaliable within 150 miles of you, including m pricing and discounts. I see a lot of dealers around here with significant mark downs already listed. But there's many dealers to choose from in the area where I live.they are offering 6 years 100k warranty. I've also driven the Tacoma TRD Sport which is similar. THere are slight differences but not very many. I just want to negotiate the best price. They only have one black one on the lot so not sure how much wiggle room i have - it's not like they have a bunch they can't move.
Seems like it's hit or miss on the engine you get. Mine burns zero oil. But I've seen posts from other forum members that theirs uses a quart every 2000 miles, which is clearly a problem.Also, I am hearing about how the newer Chevy's are just bad and burn a ton of oil. What are some of your experiences? Thx
Actually thats the spec now, used to be 1 quart per 3000 miles. I asked my service advisor and he looked it up right in front of me.Seems like it's hit or miss on the engine you get. Mine burns zero oil. But I've seen posts from other forum members that theirs uses a quart every 2000 miles, which is clearly a problem.
That may be the spec now, but it's total bullshit. There's no way that is proper engine performance.Actually thats the spec now, used to be 1 quart per 3000 miles. I asked my service advisor and he looked it up right in front of me.
My 6.2 loses a little over a 3K oil change interval but its been getting less and less as the miles go up, so further break in(and oil spec changes) must have helped with that.That may be the spec now, but it's total bullshit. There's no way that is proper engine performance.
Yep, no need to change oil, just add some and go.That may be the spec now, but it's total bullshit. There's no way that is proper engine performance.
Yeah. I am thinking 0w40 should drop some consumption. The first time I thought mine might have been close to 1 quart, but when I actually measured it, it was about 1/2 quart.My 6.2 loses a little over a 3K oil change interval but its been getting less and less as the miles go up, so further break in(and oil spec changes) must have helped with that.