Blackstone Labs Oil Analysis

[AXE]

I got my oil analysis back from Blackstone Labs for the Tahoe. It has 10k miles on the motor and it was a 5k interval oil change.

The note about the water contamination was likely self inflicted. I used a water bottle to collect the sample. I blew it out with an air hose, but there was still some vapor on the inside of the water bottle. I guess it was enough to show up.

Looks like it's mostly in spec. They mention the high copper may be from breaking in. Copper can be a bad sign and indicate bearing failure. We know the crank main and rod bearings failures are real with this motor. I'm not terribly concerned, but may pull another sample at 13K.

 

[AXE]

This is the explanation of the report metrics from Blackstone.

Engine Report Explanation

Averages: Both the universal and unit averages are running averages and change with the number of samples we analyze.

Elements: Elements are quantified in the oil at parts per million levels (PPM). This list shows the most common sources of the elements in gasoline or diesel engine oil. Following each element is a description of where it comes from. They are grouped by category.

Wear Metals
Aluminum: Pistons, bearings. Clutch assembly and transmission components in motorcycles

Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel

Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil. Transmission shafts/gears and bearings in motorcycles

Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers

Lead: Bearings, leaded gas, fuel additives

Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coating (rare)

Nickel: Trace element in steel, platings on some cylinder types

Silver: Bearings

Titanium: Some intake valves and connecting rods, aftermarket parts, oil additive

Contaminants
Potassium: Antifreeze, additive in some oil types

Sodium: Antifreeze (ethylene glycol), additive in some gasoline engine oils. Sea water in marine engines

Silicon: Airborne dirt escaping air filtration, sealers, gaskets, sand-casted parts, and spray lubricants, antifreeze inhibitor, oil additives

Additives
Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, some types of rings

Manganese: Trace element, additive in some gasoline

Boron: Anti-wear/anti-rust additive, antifreeze inhibitor

Calcium: Detergent/dispersant additive

Magnesium:
Detergent/dispersant additive

Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive

Zinc: Anti-wear additive

Barium: Detergent/dispersant additive used in some synthetics

Physical properties Viscosity/Flashpoint: If fuel is present in the oil, the Viscosity and Flashpoint will often be lower than stated in the “Values Should Be” line. A high viscosity may show oil oxidation or high levels of soot. It can also show an oil additive in use.

Fuel %: Indicates the amount of volatile fuel dilution found in the oil.

Antifreeze %: Indicates the amount of antifreeze found in the oil. A question mark means we found possible traces of coolant, but not enough to definitively say it’s there.

Water %: Indicates the amount of water found in the oil.

Insolubles %: Insolubles are solid materials present in the oil. They are typically free carbon from the oxidation of the oil itself, along with blow-by past the rings.

 

[amateurhour]

Nice, it’s pretty comparable to my report at 7500 miles with Amsoil signature

 

[AXE]

Nice, it’s pretty comparable to my report at 7500 miles with Amsoil signature

View attachment 12246

Excellent! I am glad you posted that. I was sitting here thinking it would be interesting to see some different oils.

It looks like the Amsoil has higher volume of additives compared to Mobil 1. Might be better for wear.

Your copper is higher, so probably going down with more miles.

I should get my ZR2 analysis soon. Sent it in at the same time. I will post it when I get it.

 

[AXE]

I got the results back for the 10K miles oil analysis on the ZR2. One key difference on my 22 ZR2 is that this change was done at 2k, and was the fourth oil change (1500, 4500, 8000, 10000).

A few differences include higher iron and lower copper for wear metals. Lower molybdenum for the additives.

Looks like both are similar in terms of average wear, so I'll probably feel comfortable running 5k intervals, which seems to be about 70% +/z
- of oil life as shown in the DIC.

 

[TX_ZR2]

Finally did a report for mine at 36,400, overall seems ok which is reassuring. I went a bit more on the miles before change on this one, but couldn't fit it into the schedule until ~7,000k.

 

[amateurhour]

Another report for reference. My new work headquarters has a shorter commute so I’ll probably stick to short change intervals even though the TBN indicates a lot of oil life left.

 

[AXE]

Another report for reference. My new work headquarters has a shorter commute so I’ll probably stick to short change intervals even though the TBN indicates a lot of oil life left.

View attachment 15733

It's gonna be interesting to see if anyone with good Labs ends up with a smoked motor. I'm not sure I'll keep my 1500 ZR2 long enough to really know, but the Tahoe might stick around 5+ years. I'm about to do another change on that rig. Should have some 15k results in about 1 month.

 

[AXE]

Here's my second oil analysis on the Tahoe. Looks pretty good. I'm gonna have to research that silicone note. I do know i replaced the air filter at 10k miles. I'll check to make sure it's seated correctly.

Also interesting to note the anti wear additives were down a bit. I'm starting to think 3333 mile oil changes are better for this motor. I've done more frequent changes on the ZR2, so we'll see what the next one looks like there.

It should be noted, this oil change included extremely hot summer temps. I consider that serve duty, so 5k miles is OK, but maybe not the best.

 

[MNNJR69]

Doing my regular 2.5k mi. oil change next week...going to Blackstone for analysis. Will post when I get it back. My 22 1500 has just under 26k miles so far. I have been regularly changing oil between 2k-3k mi Adding Lucas synthetic stabilizer every time. I empty my J&l oil catch can every 1k miles. The catch can is usually right around 1/3 full every 1k miles

 

[AXE]

Doing my regular 2.5k mi. oil change next week...going to Blackstone for analysis. Will post when I get it back. My 22 1500 has just under 26k miles so far. I have been regularly changing oil between 2k-3k mi Adding Lucas synthetic stabilizer every time. I empty my J&l oil catch can every 1k miles. The catch can is usually right around 1/3 full every 1k miles

I'm alot closer to 2500 mile changes on my ZR2. Not planned that way, the intervals were just coinciding with some long trips I've taken. For the most part the first samples were comparable between 2000 and 5000 miles. 2500 was my standard for a couple decades.

 

[GO2JAIL]

Gonna send mine off at my next oil change, probably around 8000 miles or so. I'll post results when I get them.

 

[AXE]

Got another oil sample analysis back from Blackstone on my 1500 ZR2. Wear metals looking better and improving with more miles. Interesting note they have with respect to TBN. They indicate this oil was hitting its useful life at 3333 miles. Just to remind everyone, I like to run mine with the paddles and I rip it between 3500-5500 rpms at least 1 or 10 times when I make a trip. Also run in high heat from May-September. I suspect that's having an impact on my longevity of the oil.

As I mentioned before, I have now decided I'm doing my changes at 3333 (3 per 10k) miles going forward on the 1500 and Tahoe. I just like that interval based upon analysis and what the oil looks like best after my testing.

Compared to @amateurhour using Amsoil at twice the miles, his TBN is noticeably better. So if your gonna run extended intervals, that might be the best choice for oil.

Probably won't do another test until Tahoe hits 22kish.

 

[The_Q]

Got my first lab report the other day on the baby max. I did the first oil change at 2,469 miles. This one was done at 6,686 miles. I plan to do oil changes every 5,000 miles in the future, unless the lab reports dictate otherwise.

 

[AXE]

Looks good! I didn't know the 3.0L diesel used 0W20 oil.

 

[The_Q]

Looks good! I didn't know the 3.0L diesel used 0W20 oil.

Yeah, I was surprised they run that watery oil weight too.

 

[TX_ZR2]

Got my second report done and all seems to look good. I'm pushing 51k now and haven't babied it at all. Letting the suggested oil life from the gauges guide me and getting about 7k between changes.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Got my second report done and all seems to look good. I'm pushing 51k now and haven't babied it at all. Letting the suggested oil life from the gauges guide me and getting about 7k between changes.

View attachment 21580

Those are some great numbers, any time you can stay below 10 parts per million in wear metal it is great, when you are 5 parts or lower that is fantastic, that thing broke in and is wearing great, I’d stick with the M1 for sure cause that motor likes that formulation.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Since everyone is sharing I thought I would drop mine in here as a data point for others with the 3.0 diesel in the 1500, with 11K on mine I am getting close to having all the break in metals and silicon washed out and hope to start seeing the true wear rate on the next couple of reports. I am currently running ACD DexosD 0W-20 and PF66's or UPF66's depending on what I have on hand, but will soon be switching to M1 ESPx2 DexosD and may look for an upgraded filter that isn't a boutique brand, so no PPE's in my future, at 5K OCI I see no need for these. I change my oil early for the first few changes in a new engine, I like to get as much of the break in and wear metals and assembly lubes and gasketing material out ASAP as I go through the break in. From my experience with the fist gen LM2 I had in my 21 RST these engines take about 18-20K miles to be fully broken in and when they do you should see a slight bump in fuel economy, currently averaging 26 MPG based on hand calc from pump receipts which is up from the 24 I got when it was brand new. For the first few oil drains I spaced and forgot to get it from the tap, so I had to pull them from the filter when I pulled it off, I also run Hot Shots EDT on every tank. As a final note, I sometimes try to hypermile to see what she will do, I also sometimes bang off the speed limiter for miles on end just for funsies, but neither of my 3.0 diesels use any oil that I can see on the stick between changes, I hope that continues to hold true. I have put the few samples I have for the old LM2 also as a reference for others who may be interested.

21 RST with the first gen LM2

 

[MNNJR69]

I forgot to grab some oil as I was changing it last week but I still have my filter. I'm going to cut it open and I will post pictures.